In the past, long-wear, smudge-resistant mascaras were not washable with water. Such mascaras were typically anhydrous. In contrast, mascara compositions which were washable with water were not long-wear or smudge-resistant. Such mascaras typically contained significant amounts of water (for example, oil-in-water emulsions).
Mascaras are in particular prepared on the basis of two types of formulations: aqueous mascaras referred to as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water, and anhydrous or low-water-content mascaras, referred to as water-resistant mascaras (referred to as “waterproof”), in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.
Thickening or filling mascaras are generally known, and these mascaras can impart volume to eyelashes. This effect is generally obtained by depositing a maximum of solid substances onto the eyelashes. Generally speaking, it is through the qualitative and quantitative choice of the solid particles, in particular the waxes, that the application properties sought for such make-up compositions, such as for example their fluidity or consistency, their covering power or their thickening power (also called filling or make-up power), can be adjusted.
In order to adjust the consistency and the cosmetic properties, so-called “soft” waxes, such as beeswax or paraffin wax, are used in combination with so-called “hard” waxes in order to obtain a mascara exhibiting a high solids content and a medium to high consistency, these characteristics being generally necessary for a mascara to be filling.
In addition, the aqueous mascaras mainly contain a surfactant system, for example based on triethanolamine stearate, which makes it possible to obtain a stable dispersion of particles of wax agglomerated in an aqueous phase. This system plays an important part in the obtaining of such a dispersion, in particular at the interface in the interactions between particles of wax.
However, the mascaras described above have the disadvantages of, among other things, being dry, having poor flexibility and/or having poor consistency.
There is thus a need to develop a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up the eyelashes, making it possible to obtain a smooth and homogeneous deposit on the eyelashes, while exhibiting a consistency that is easy to work after application, which has improved volumizing, curling and/or curl retention properties.